Coming & Going: Berlin
I was in Berlin between the last newsletter and now – am sending this from LA – to attend the film festival. In the scant off moments from work, I did my brief list of favourite little things. I don’t know the city well and have only ever visited in the depths of winter, but not being overly familiar with a place can be a blessing.
Late afternoon sun hitting on the final weekend, I was about to spend too many euros on my dog
I’ve always been plagued by poor sleep but when I hit peak stress I either experience sleep paralysis (hideous, uncool) or have this one nightmare where I am in New York but have to get to the airport and realise I’ve been asleep the whole trip, didn't get to any of my favourite places, see any friends – and worst – did not buy gifts to take back home. The sleep paralysis I can’t do much about, but I’ve been trying to take a more laissez–faire approach to travel where possible. It’s like exposure therapy for not getting all razzed up about having the best time ever. Didn’t get to that overpriced gallery or that one little bistro that’s only open for like 3 hours a day and is hidden under a tram station but everyone on your Instagram rates it? Divest yourself from your dropped pins for at least a day!
View from the queue, waiting to see Joanna Hogg ask Martin Scorcese 90 minutes worth of incredible questions including his predilection for specific shoes on set
I took a new, untested little film camera with me to Germany and the results were not favourable. Not ideal. Out of a roll of 24, maybe eight images came back somewhat visible but all with light bleed and an occasional thumb. I laughed when the lab transferred me the files and felt thankful that I hadn’t ticked the “prints” box as well. I kind of love them though, they capture the winter haze and the relief when the sun breaks through on a miserable chill of a day. It’s ok that the shots of the first crocuses of spring didn’t transpire, but I do wish the shot of the clichéd TV offering when I first arrived had – a beautifully dubbed episode of Baywatch.
A favourite building next to the Akademie der Künste, featuring ungloved index finger
One of the greatest feelings is walking in a city that you don’t really know, when you don’t have a particular place to be. Absolutely perfect if you’re dressed for the temperature and your phone is fully charged but for now you can just keep it in your bag, out of mind. Though I travel a lot for work, and those days are long, I do try to fit in a few of these little traipses in every day. Take the route that may add an extra 10 minutes to the trip but who knows what weird little antiquitätenladen you might come across, a café that appears to have been transported straight from 1939 or 1993, or some really vulgar graffiti that will make you laugh.
The border of Alexanderplatz and Kreuzberg, where the Baywatch was watched
A few quick Berlin faves: A lazy Sunday browsing lamps and perfectly folded scarves in KaDeWe, try to hit the food hall around midday to see locals already halfway through a plate of lobster, a side of caviar, and polishing off the lot with a few swigs of champagne – it is intense, foul and beautiful all at once / Sway is one of the best wine bars on the planet – great vibe, great food, great grog! / I like a vegetable soup and a beer at Joseph–Roth–Diele Gatstätte (for the ambiance not for the food) and do not even attempt to go in peak times, sweet spot is often around 4pm / I used to love a vegan reuben at Mogg but vale that place! / The funny little cafeteria in the bottom of the Neue Nationalgalerie where you can have a sour cherry soda and a slice of apfelkuchen and when you take your tray back you see a sign that says “Geschirrrückgabe weil wir uns lieben” (Crockery returns because we love each other) / the breakfast spread at Hotel Chaâteau Royal Berlin (but be warned its lobby bar can get extreme at times and oh fräulein, you will be waiting on service awhile / Sonnenberg sells the best dog toys / This one very not hip, very not viral felafel place that I just can’t remember where it is but it’s close to the U Turmstraße but I can take you if we’re ever there together.
Elsewhere:
I reviewed La Chimera and Perfect Days over at The Monthly and it was a total joy to write relatively long on these two sublime films
An overview of some of the films seen at the Berlinale for MIFF
A voice note episode between me in Berlin & Brodie Lancaster in Melbourne for our podcast See Also (this one’s for See Also Hogg Hive members only though!)
Reading: The Garden Against Time by Olivia Laing of course
Listening: Jessica Pratt’s newie – Here in the Pitch
Kate Jinx is a writer and film curator, mostly. She is the co–host of See Also podcast, Programmer at the Melbourne International Film Festival, Director of Programming at Golden Age Cinema ◠ On Instagram & Twitter